Ride it like you
stole it!
Excelsior Henderson Resource Board Things to look for on an X
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Ride it like you
stole it!
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Front Brake
Switch
Honda part #35340-MM5-600 is the
replacement switch I used for the front and NAPA
part #OP6624 is what I replaced the rear brake switch with.
Niether of these switches were OEM replacements but they fit very well
with no modifications.-xnbar
shrinkitup
11/7/00
1:05 pm
I just replaced my front brake light switch. I don't know if anyone has posted this but It is a Japanese part. All Honda CB series bikes from the 80's use the same switch. Honda part # 35340-MA5-671. There are about a zillion other bikes that use it too. American Honda got it to me in about 2 days. Paul beat em by a day though.
Fixing the Switch Since the switch didn't work anyway --I sure couldn't screw it up too bad by removing it and opening it up.Bigxdoc indicated that the interior spring was the problem, but I wanted to see what for myself what was causing the failure!
So...here's the step-by-step of what I found and "the fix". 1. The switch is held to the lever assembly by one Phillips-head screw and a locating post on the switch. Disconnect the two wires, then remove the screw. Pull on the lever to move it away from the switch and gently rock the switch and pull it off straight down. It *won't* fall apart.
2. Notice that there are two holes in the bottom of the switch (water drain???), which IMO contributes to the problem. On the *top* of the switch, there are three "staked" spots where they have heat-staked the switch together.
3. Carefully drill out the head on all three stakes using a #30 drill (0.128"). I'm sure a plain ol' 1/8" drill would be fine. Be careful to just remove the *head* of the staked post -- working slowly here means you shouldn't trash the sucker!
Continued in part 2... 4. Carefully pry open the two halves by sliding a THIN blade in the seam. Slowly work around the entire seam until the top cover (the thinner of the two pieces) can be lifted straight up and off. Keep a finger on the switch button to keep it from flying off when the cover comes off. The switch mechanism will *not* fly apart when you remove the cover.
5. I metered the switch and found that it is not the spring (which is IMO very well designed) but rather a HIGH-RESISTANCE path on the switch contacts. The switch is a single-pole-single-throw (SPST) NORMALLY CLOSED design. The brake lever holds the button *pushed in*, thereby keep the switch contacts open until you pull the lever. The action of the movable contact provides a "wiping" action on the fixed contact, helping to prevent "pitting" of the contacts.
6. Remove the fixed contact by carefully pulling straight up out of its slot in the body. The contact will probably have some black corrosion on it. Take a common pencil eraser and carefully "burnish" the contact to remove the corrosion.
7. Remove the movable contact from its slot. It will not *not* fly apart -- it's a pretty slick assembly. Its contact will also be corroded. Burnish it to clean it up. While you're at it, burnish the two tabs that stick out of the switch and accept the wire connectors.
8. IF you have some "canned air", blow out any junk in the switch body. Now, slide the MOVABLE contact assembly into its slot. (I put the FIXED in first, but I had to be really careful not to screw up the contacts when you put the movable assembly in place -- I think putting the fixed in place first is easier).
Continued in part 3...
9. Put the actuating button back in place -- the "fat" end goes against the switch mechanism. Holding the button down in the body and push the button to actuate the movable assembly. That will move the contact out of the way and allow you to easily slip the FIXED contact into its slot.
10. BINGO...! Try the switch a couple of times (remember to hold the button in the body while you press it. IF you have an Ohmmeter, check it -- you should find that there is only about 0.3 ohms of resistance when the switch is NOT pushed -- and it should be at "infinity" when it is pushed.
11. I was gonna glue the body halves back together, but finally said WHY? The mounting screw holds everything together nicely -- it can't fall apart unless the screw falls out. AND...it makes it really simple to service the switch in the field -- like when you're a gazillion miles from home, at night, and the damn thing craps out. All you need is a Phillips screwdriver and a pencil eraser!
Jeez...I'm sorry this took so damn long to 'splain. When I get started it's sorta like a broken faucet. Just keeps on running...
Hope this helps someone to not have a cage up their A@#.
Chuckles aka chuX proudly riding 'Celsi' #573
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