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Ride it like you
stole it!
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Bag-eez
Saddlebag brackets
I installed
the Bag-eez brackets today on Celsi #573.
NOW
I have a little more insight to the problems in mounting and will share some
observations.
1/
The
slots in my studs measured 0.131" wide (measured with several feeler
gages lumped together). The thickness of my brackets in the slot that engages
the studs averaged 0.121". That only leaves 0.010" of clearance,
which sounds tight. In reality, when you get the brackets aligned properly,
it's plenty.
2/
IF
you don't have the sissy bar AND you (or your dealer) haven't installed the
shims (spacers) on the *rear* fender strut mounting bolt, the brackets are not
gonna fit worth squat! The rear stud is out of alignment about 1/4"
toward the fender when viewed from behind.
Since
I have neither (well, my dealer told me I had the shims but NOPE), I put
1/4" *temporary* shims in place between the strut and the fender on the
REAR bolt only! You don't need to mess with the front -- it's fine.
3/
The
bolts on the front studs stick out of the captive fender nut about 1/4"
and MAY interfere with the tire -- I don't think they will but I'm gonna watch
it closely. If in doubt, cut off the excess.
4/
In
spite of all the careful fitting to get the slots in the same plane left to
right, I had to *carefully* bend both brackets to get them to
"click" into place.
I
placed the bracket on the *front* stud and held it over the rear stud to see
how I had to bend the bracket. It had to go *towards* the fender. Put the
plate in a vise and *carefully* bend it just *behind* the front bracket
"box". It only takes a little bend!
If
you've guessed correctly on the amount of the first bend, you'll probably
notice that the rear bracket "box" alignment looks pretty good at
the front of the slot, but too far inward (toward the fender) at the rear of
the slot (it's "cocked"). The meant that I had to again bend the
bracket, but this time just *ahead* of the rear bracket box, and *away* from
the fender. This is only a TINY tweak -- err on the safe side and bend it a
second time if necessary.
5/
Finally,
I drilled out the damn pop rivets on the padlock "arm" and will
install button head screws and Nylok nuts, so I can adjust the arm tension
(stiff but not STIFF). Mine came with one stiff enough but the other was just
plain "floppy".
Geez,
I hope this helps and doesn't confuse the issue further! It's really easier to
*show* someone how but it's kinda hard considering thedistances separating all
of us!
Chuckles
aka chuX
Msg
#3910
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