Ride it like you stole it!

Excelsior Henderson Resource Board Things to look for on an X

A Listing of the tips, tricks and cross references from the Yahoo clubs

There are 3 different methods on this page

method 1

Light Bar Signal Mount Conversion

Greg,

The light signal mounts are conversions done after-the-fact and are not factory. There are a couple of routes to choose:

1) Custom Chrome:

Qt. 2: Turn signal lights part no.: 19-093

Qt. 2: Standoff part no.: 19-093

2) Harley-Davidson (about twice the cost, but all parts are made in the USA, plus the shape goes perfectly with the Super X. I chose this route and after repeated trips to the HD dealership here is the complete list of parts.):

Qt. 2: Front Directional (turn signal) part no.: 68766-4

Qt. 2: Lamp Mounting Bracket (standoff) part no.: 68519-68A

Qt. 2: Clamp Block part no.: 68720-62

Qt. 2: Nut part no.: 7778

Qt. 4: Hex Socket Head Cap part no.: 2647B

You will have to splice into your existing turn signal wires, but they are color coded exactly the same as Harley. You will also have to cut some of the driving lamp connectors in both driving lamp housings to allow you to run through the new standoffs; it is very important to remember the wiring positions or it will be fuse blowing time. Snap On makes a special 9/16" deep wall socket to tighten down the nut and adjust the lamps. Most people take a 9/16" six sided deep socket, dado one of the side and then cove out the middle. This modification allows you to tighten the nut and goes around the wires.

Moving the lights makes for a nicer front end and I believe that other drivers can see the turn signals better. Good Luck, you already know to run down the gas to almost empty so the gas tank is easier to get off and handle.

Susie_xq

Msg #5466

Method 2

Turn signal relocation to light bar

greg_cifu

(35/M/Lancaster, Ca)

9/3/00 4:12 am

For those interested in remounting their stock signals to the lightbar, I succeeded tonight. The basic idea was to thread the spotlight

mounting nut and put a 3/8 stud in there to mount the stock signal housing. A hole drilled in each spotlight passes the wires through a newly

installed grommet. Here's the steps:

1) Remove the turn signal wiring. If you carefully pull the contact pins out of the bulb socket (make sure there's enough slack in the wire)

you can unhook the pins from the plastic holder. Once disengaged, the harness will fish out of the housing, undamaged.

2) Remove the front turn signals from their stalks or handlebar mounts (depending on year). The original mounting hole in the signal housing

is 5/16. You need to drill this out to 3/8.

3) Remove the spotlight trim rings and bulbs. You'll need to cut these wires inside. The lugs are crimped on and won't fish through.

Thankfully, it looks like it was already done in somebody's garage so it will be easy to duplicate. Once the wiring is removed, unscrew the

mounting nuts holding the spotlamp housings on.

4) The stud used to mount the spotlights is 3/8-16 thread. The nuts are threaded but not all the way through. You'll need to get a 3/8" tap

and continue the threads all the way through the nut. This was kind of tough for me. I had a cheap tap and it took awhile to do it without

breaking it off. If you're not good with threading, you may want to turn this over to a machinist.

5) Once the nuts are tapped, you need to make 3/8-16 mounting studs for the signals. I bought a 6" long, fully threaded bolt and cut off 2

appropriate lengths. Sorry I didn't measure but mine ended up ABOUT 1" long. They need to be long enough to use the extra 1/2" or so of

unused threads at the bottom of the spotlight nut, pass through the signal housing and have just enough for a washer and nut inside the signal

housing.

6) The last modification is to drill a hole in each spotlight housing for the lamp wiring. The grommets I bought called for a 5/16 hole so that's

what I drilled--right at the bottom, between the trim ring and the mounting flange. From that location, the wire makes a short, graceful bend

into the tube and is less noticeable than the original routing.

7) Once this stuff is done, you can fish the turn signal wires through each side of the lightbar, rerun the spotlight wiring and put everything

back together. Mount the spotlamps and snug the nuts down (temporarily). Screw the studs you made in step 5, into the bottom of the

nuts. Once it bottoms, back it out 1/2-1 turn. You don't want the threads to bind or you won't be able to tighten the spotlamps. Slide the

signal housing onto the stud, put a 3/8 washer and nut on there and tighten finger tight.

8) The rest is just reassembly. You obviously have to aim the spotlights before you tighten the signals the final time. Once they're aimed and

tight, rotate the signals as required and tighten the nuts inside each signal housing. Put the bulbs and lenses back on and you're in business.

The final result was worth it for me. It looks totally stock, uses E-H parts and eliminates the redundant signal stalks. Including a trip to the

hardware store, auto parts store and Taco Bell, it took me 5 hours to complete--and I was taking my time (polishing things as I

reassembled). I hope this helps others who want to do the same.

Method 3

Converting E-H '99 Handlebar-mounted Turn-Signals to

Fork-mounted Signals by Chuckles (HCX 000573) 11-5-1999

Parts required:

TWO E-H #2600-0005C-01 EHP MOUNT-TURN SIGNAL ($40 each)

FOUR 5/16"-18 x 1/2" button-head screws (I used SS, which

you should be able to get at any good Hardware store -- if

not, order them from E-H. You might want to get a couple

extra screws, just in case)

TWO 5/16"-18 nuts (standard or "jam")

TWO 5/16" ID x 3/4" OD x 3/32" plastic washers (optional)

Tools required:

- 5/16"-18 tap and 5/16"-18 die with holder (MUST HAVE)

- 3/16" hex bit for 3/8" socket drive

- 3/8"swivel joint for socket drive

- 3/8" socket wrench and 6" , 9" or 12" extension

- Open-end wrench usually 1/4") for the tap

- 1/2" open-end wrench for the nut

- Putty knife with thin blade for removing plastic plugs

Here's how 'ya do it:

Using the putty knife, carefully remove the plastic plugs

from the two LOWER holes in the RIGHT fork. Using the

5/16"-18 tap and the wrench, run the tap into the upper hole.

TAKE YOUR TIME! Powdercoat is on the threads and it is tough.

Turn the tap about 1/4-1/2 turn, then back it up the same

amount to clear the threads. The tap gets very tight very

quickly. Remove the tap and blow it and the threads clean

several times PER hole. THIS IS THE MOST TEDIOUS

TASK - WORK SLOWLY AND CAREFULLY - you

*really* don't want a broken tap in a hole! When the screw

can be screwed in all the way, you're done on that hole.

REPEAT FOR THE LOWER HOLE and

THE TWO LEFT FORK HOLES.

Alright - you've finished the CRUMMY part!

Remove the cable clip NEAREST the right grip from the

handlebar. Unbolt and remove the right turn-signal from the

handlebar and remove the mounting stud. Remove the turn-

signal lens and the lamp (so it doesn't get broken). Hold

the turn-signal over a trash can with the open side facing

down. Using the 5/16"-18 tap, CAREFULLY re-tap the female

thread in the turn-signal. Blow out any metal dust from the

threads and the turn-signal housing. Let the turn-signal

hang down for a moment.

Clean up the 5/16"-18 male threads on both mounts by running

the DIE over the threads. Start the die onto the threads from

the "start" side of the die. Use the same procedure as with

the tap -- turn the die 1/2 turn, then back it off, etc. After

you have run the die as far as possible, remove it and run it

on from the non "start" side to clean up the last few threads.

Set one mount aside.

If you bought the optional plastic washers, slide one on the

mount stud, then CARE-FULLY screw the mount into the

turn-signal until it is just snug. Hold it up on the right

fork, with the turn-signal facing FORWARD (ignore if it's

tilted slightly). Using two 5/16"-18 button-head screws,

attach the mount to the fork. I didn't use Loctite but will

probably do so later. Tighten the screws using the 3/16" hex

drive, swivel, extension and socket wrench (the swivel is

required so the extension can clear the turn-signal housing).

If you have a torque wrench, torque the screws to 15lb ft or

so - if not, snug 'em up tight. The plastic washer looks nice

and makes the lamp housing fit better (IMHO - use you own judgement).

Install a 5/16" nut on the end of the mounting stud INSIDE the lamp housing.

Align the housing horizontal and

tighten the nut with the 1/2" open-end wrench -- snug it up

tight. Install the lamp, test the turn signal operation, then

install the lens. Put one or two tie-wraps around the cable

and the mount, then "dress" the remaing cable to suit you and

secure with additional tie-wraps. Reinstall the cable clip on

the handlebar. WHEW -- one side is done!

Follow the instructions above to relocate the LEFT turn-signal

to it's new location on the left fork, substituting the word

LEFT for the word RIGHT as necessary.

Sorry this was so darn long, guys, but I really didn't want you

all to go through the same hassles that I did to get mine done.

(Without getting into the gory details, suffice to say I put the

mounts on first 'cause I didn't have the stupid 3/8" drive

SWIVEL -- can you say "twisted wires"?)

Chuckles